Day eleven continued - Perhaps it was the Barra farm but we then decided to set up our chairs and watch the sunset over the Gulf while we consumed the best Barra and chips in Aus (allegedly). This was a great night and hopefully the pictures capture something of this. We the returned to Normanton and Harry and I decided to go fishing for Barra off the old bridge. We had been told that a few nights earlier they were catching them on bight coloured soft plastics. And so we tried our luck. Well the good news was that we did as well as the locals, the bad news is they caught nothing. It was freezing and I couldn’t blame the Barra for remaining asleep. We did get a few nibbles and on our last cast we got half of an old hand net.

Day Ten

Today we said goodbye to Steve and Carley who were moving on to King Fisher, packed up our camp and headed for Normanton.
We stopped in at Adeles Grove (11 kms from Lawn Hill) on the way out. As we had had such a lovely time at Lawn Hill we were considering staying a night there to continue the experience. Although the amenities were more comfortable than Lawn Hill we decided that we would be better to push on. We continued our trek out of the National Park and a couple of hours later with camper trailer almost completely black from mud we arrived at Gregory Downs for lunch. Gregory Downs is a one pub town, friendly locals but not much else. After a pie and chips (nothing else on the menu!) we continued east and then north to Normanton. There is very little along this stretch of road except lots of road kill, the odd ferral pig and thousands of termite mounds.
We arrived in Normanton late afternoon and set up camp in the caravan park near the Purple Pub.

Day Nine
It was up early for the Cooks as we made sure we got down to the edge of the gorge for two canoes (and yes we beat all the Grey Nomads…. chalk up one for a wise family and an 8 year old that can cover 100 metres faster than any retiree). A quick walk from our camp site to the edge of the gorge had revealed something of the oasis that exists in the harsh, dry outback landscape. Little did we realise just how impressive the gorge really is. As we paddled further into the middle gorge it was like being in a TV commercial….. you know the ones “you'll never never know if you never ever go”. This is one of the few natural creations I have seen that is truly breathtaking, to the point that even the three children were continually giving more positive comments than we even get from Mario vs Sonic at the Olympics on the Ninetendo …that’s tough competition. All in all we spent nearly 4 hours paddling and even had to drag the canoes 150 metres overland so we could go up a waterfall to the upper gorge. This really is a must do experience. All the planning, effort and money was almost worth it for this one experience. Thanks to Annie and Steve for steering us in this direction as it was truly a great moment to share as a family. When we got back to the camp. It was then that Harry met our neighbours (the serious campers). His name was Steve, he was from South Australia (Port Lincoln) and it was clear that this guy had played more than a few games of AFL (Jon he reminded us of you…..perhaps in your younger days). Harry was kicking around his football and Steve started to have a kick with him. So we all joined in with Wes trying to look like he had always layed AFL…. Tough ask. We got talking, meet his wife Carley and the their two girls teamed up with our girls and all was great. As we were both planning to BBQ that night, Steve suggested we cook it on his serious outback BBQ so we arranged to clean the kids and meet at their camper. As we arrived with beer, wine and some dip and biscuits, Carley was putting the finishing touches to some salmon and caviar snacks ( Now thats camping!). Steve even taught Harry how to find true south using the stars, I of course nodded as if I had always known. We proceeded to have a great night as the kids played in the adjoining dusty common. We learnt all about this couple who ran an oyster farm and the fascinating world of the oyster market. Steve had worked many jobs but interestingly spent a few years as a tuna fisherman. He said that during his many hours on the deck alone he had the time to contemplate the meaning of life and of course we wanted to know(especially so we could ass it to you Boppo). I’m not sure if it was the red wine or the profoundness of the comments but I think they are worth sharing. He believed the meaning of life was “to leave something for others”. Maybe this is something that is obvious to others but for me in the middle of the Australian Outback and under a crystal clear sky with the stars reflecting the collective knowledge of the universe, I new I would never forget this. It was a privilege to meet and briefly get to know this lovely family.

Day Eight
This was going to be a big day’s drive and while not being big in terms of distance (about 450km’s) it was to be our first real off road experience with the van. We drove to the Burke and Wills roadhouse and stopped for lunch (I still cannot work out why this roadhouse appears on every map and was opened by the Premier.... go figure). After lunch we started our 200+km journey onto Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill)National park. The first 100+ km’s was meant to be easy as it was bitumen although only one lane. That would have been OK if we hadn’t been confronted by some Grey Nomad who thought he was Fangio and was driving his huge motor home at about 100km’s an hour. Either he had no idea or his incontinence pad sprung a leak as he suddenly swerved onto the gravel kicking up all manner of materials including one large rock that hit our windscreen like a bullet causing it to crack. Lesson learnt – many Grey Nomads have spent their lives driving around in a Toyota Corolla and suddenly after 65 years, they decide to buy a motor home that is as wide as their own cars were long. I have written an email to the motor home association suggesting they put this warning on the inside of all new motor homes sold
“ Dear New Owner. Congratulations on your purchase. In case you have not noticed this vehicle is slightly larger and wider than your normal sedan. We suggest before driving it around Australia and annoying every other driver that you familiarise yourself with the dimensions. It is suggested an extensive test drive on quiet roads be taken rather than going up and down your own driveway showing friends. While it is true that everyone around you will do their best to get out of your way, you may actually kill someone as they try to avoid you. We would also like to warn you that when you go up a hill, this motorhome will slow down, even if you don’t look at your speedo. We also suggest that you occasionally look in your rear view mirrors (these are on the front left and right guards) as these will indicate how many peoples day you are ruining. Finally, best of luck and please try not fatally wound too many fellow motorists as many of these people also enjoy living”
Thanks to modern technology the crack did not spread and all was fine. All this after only 3km’s and not even on a full dirt road. The road got rougher and rougher until it looked like the site that NASA staged the first moon walk. At some stage we were driving at 10 km an hour but all seemed to be OK. We finally made it into the National Park. Only limited camping is available and no power or hot water showers are available. There is a ranger stationed at the park but he showed little interest in anything. His advice on where we should camp was simple “just drive around until you find a spot you like then set up” gee thanks! We set up next to a serious camp site with a camper trailer, solar cells and an owner that looked like Alby Mangles at his best. Little did we know we would learn a lot more about them. We also found out that the canoe hire opened at 8am and it was first in best dressed. No way was Wes going to miss out.

Day Seven
Today we decided to leave the Jayco at Cloncurry and take the mighty Prado solo to Mt Isa for the day. This made sense as our next leg to Lawn Hill National Park was over very rough unmade road and we were told the route via Cloncurry was far better than via Mt Isa. It was amazing after having towed the van for so long to have the freedom of the car solo. No need to plan when you wanted to turn, reversing is easy and you can accelerate as you like. The road to Isa was interesting with a mix of fascinating landscapes and road trains bringing the various materials from the mines. We went to the Outback at Isa exhibition which gave a great overview of the history and the present operations at Mt Isa. It was very well done and the kids were very interested in he activities in the town. After this, we went to the central lookout which gives a insightful vista of the whole Mt Isa area including mines, residential, commercial and power generation. We then drove around the town to get a feel for the place which although dry and dusty seemed welcoming and friendly. We ended up out of town at the man made Lake Moondarra which is a great recreational facility for the town and is fully stocked with Barra (no time for fishing yet Ren). We then rushed back to our camp grounds as we were told of a musical show that was put on every night at 6pm. Yes you guessed it, they were doing both types of music.... Country and Western and even included a Johny Cash tribute. Well what a great night, apart from the fact that we had to share the campfire with a number of sour, grumpy grey nomads. The singers were a husband and wife team called Barry K and Lin. They sang and played guitar for 1.5 hours by the campfire as the road trains from Mt Isa rumbled by. This was an amazing experience and I felt like I was part of some outback commercial, you know “In the outback you can have country and western, campfire and roadtrains without leaving your camping ground”. The kids had a great time, particularly Lucy who insisted we buy the CD which we gladly did. Lin spoke to our children with great attention and answered everyone one of Harry’s many questions... thanks Lin.

Day Seven continued - As we mentioned the road to Isa was interesting with a mix of fascinating landscapes . It was also the start of many fields of termite mounds and as you all know, the Cooks have a healthy respect for termites. It was a great opportunity for Wes to pass on some of his entomological expertise to Harry, who while appreciating it was keener to chop one in half. Here are a couple more photos from Mt Isa and the Outback at Isa exhibition.

Day Six
Today we said farewell to Longreach and headed for Cloncurry. It was during today that we realised the very democratic procedure for sharing the road with large Road Trains. It goes like this, they go as fast as they can without loosing control and you get out of the bloody way!! The further we got into the outback the longer and bigger they got (no wonder the roads are falling apart, these things must weigh more than the Sydney Harbour Bridge). We travelled through Winton and after great consideration decided to go into the Walzting Matilda Museum. What a great decision this was, it was not the tourist trap we thought it might be but rather a great tribute to Banjo Patterson and an opportunity to really understand the true meaning of Waltzing Matilda. For years we have sung it but never stopped to reflect on the spirit of freedom that is so well captured in this tale. The museum also has many other interesting exhibits and AV displays. If you ever get the chance, drop in for a few hours and I’m sure it will make an impact on you. After leaving Winton, we travelled onto a town in the middle of nowhere that has the Walkabout Creek Hotel that was used in Crocadile Dundee. It also had a roadhouse that was decorated with photos of truck crashes (not sure why). It was managed by a lovely lady who had a grand daughter named Isabella, she was very kind to our kids. She was also the first female I had ever encountered that called everyone mate (while I was happy to be considered her mate, I was not used to being addressed that way (Susie perhaps this could be a new office protocol). We then arrived in Cloncurry and selected a park to stay for the night. This park was great and run by lovely couple (she must have been as it was three in the afternoon and she already had a glass of quality red wine complete with an ice cube). After seeing the ice cube I perhaps should not have asked her advice on a venue for an evening meal but I did. So when we went to the pub she recommended, we should have pulled out when we saw the false brick work stuck over this beautiful 100 year old timber Queensland hotel but no we continued. Finally, when I saw the 60 year old barmaid with pink hair, we should have realised but no..... So $100 later and with some of the worst food we had eaten since the Glen Innes RSL, we went home dreaming about toast for breakfast.